Jim Barry The Armagh 2016

"The 2016 The Armagh Shiraz, tasted in a lineup of four vintages (2016 - 2019), has the highest alcohol of the lot (14.2% alcohol) and remains perfectly in balance. These are not the big wines that we may expect them to be. The vintage variation across them is subtle but evident, revealing the beauty of this single vineyard, planted in 1968. This 2016 wine is now starting to settle into its first drinking window and speaks of an array of deli meats, forest berries, exotic spice and even a hint of red curry paste. This has all the complexity you could want, and in terms of tannins: texture, density and rippling muscles. Sensational stuff. Drink it over the next two decades.

It was nearing the end of the day when I pulled up in front of Tom Barry's country home for a tasting of his family's wines. A long-time Clare Valley stalwart, Jim Barry now farms 330 hectares of its own vineyards but continues to buy in fruit for some of its labels. The range of wines offered is traditional in focus, with much of the attention on Riesling and Shiraz, but there are exciting developments within and outside those varieties. A joint venture with Germany's Ernie Loosen has released two vintages of fuder-aged Riesling. Assyrtiko, first released commercially in 2016, has proven to be a hit. "It's Riesling-esque, with more texture," said Barry. To date, he said there's been no need to acid-adjust it. Ten percent is barrel-fermented, and the balance is made in stainless steel, with six weeks on gross lees. We also looked at five vintages of The Armagh, Jim Barry's flagship Shiraz. Fans have a lot to look forward to, if they can stand the cost—the 2015 sells for $340 (Australian) at the cellar door. And I'd be willing to bet subsequent vintages won't be released at lower prices. Finally, there's another icon wine in the works. Jim Barry's 2016 The James, based on Cabernet Sauvignon (with a bit of Malbec), should be released this year or next after several years of bottle age. Like the Shiraz, it takes a balanced approach, neither overripe nor over-extracted, with an appealing blend of fruity and savory characteristics."