Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010

"Unprompted, Paul-Vincent Avril pulled a 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape from the admirable library stock he maintains at Clos des Papes. Who was I to say no? A stupendous effort that seamlessly marries full-bodied richness with a sense of lightness and ease, it's really just now maturing, although it has been drinkable for some time. Leather accents raspberry and blackberry fruit on the nose, while the long, silky-textured finish adds delicate notes of star anise, peppery spice and black olive. This complex, elegant masterpiece should continue to drink well for another decade and then some.

Like many of the producers I visited in late 2021, Paul-Vincent Avril seemed happy to receive a visitor after so many months of virtual isolation. "We've had a good summer—not too hot," he said. The estates parcels were, however, badly affected by frost in the spring. His team began picking on September 20, paused over the following weekend for rain, and he expected them to finish on October 2. "The phenolic maturity is there, the sugars are there," Avril said. "No, it won't be like 2019, but I think we will come in around 14.5–15 degrees [of alcohol]. I think, I don't like to say before the vintage is finished." Of the vintages reviewed here, Avril said he finds the 2019 "more powerful and rich," comparing it to 2016 and 2007, whereas he calls the 2020 "really elegant." Clos des Papes farms 24 different parcels in the appellation, and Avril said they all bring something important to the blend. "Chateauneuf de Pape is a blend—a blend of grapes and a blend of the terroirs." The 2021 vintage marked his 36th vintage, and he proudly said he'd never sold a single milliliter as bulk wine. I was left with the impression that he's not going to start now."

Joe Czerwinski 98 Punkte (Mai 2022)

Quelle: www.robertparker.com